Roncevalles to Zubiri (about 22km)

The walk from Roncevalles to Zubiri started before dawn- my first opportunity to use my headlamp! Even so, there were many other pilgrims already on the Camino who mumbled ("Buen Camino" or "Buenos Dias") when you walked past them. Some of us (those of us who felt lucky to arrive in one piece and had celebrated being alive) had had too much wine the night before and we preferred not speaking at all because our heads hurt. Just a few kilometers into the morning, a large group of us stopped at the first village market we came across for breakfast. I had water and saltines and as soon as I got up to the cash register the shop owner took one look at me and told me, "I have exactly what you need"- he rummaged in his desk drawer and gave me (from his own personal supply) an 800mg tablet of naproxen (which is an NSAID people, good for hangovers!), "This is what I use on mornings like this." he winked at me.
The magic of the Camino had already begun, the day before when another pilgrim saved me from walking too close to a precipitous cliff, when a white van with hot coffee appeared out of nowhere in the middle of the Pyrenees' fog saving me from hypothermia, and now, gifts of naproxen.
I decided then and there to accept everything coming my way.....